Firearms for Survival Situations
September 26, 2012
14 Comments
Blog Crossover Question #4
What firearms do you feel are most appropriate for long term survival and why?
(Dr. Bones says: Each day this week we will answer a question posed to us that is also being asked of 6 other preparedness bloggers. We will all answer the question on the same day; be sure to go to the other sites linked at the end of today’s response to see what they have to say. Also, feel free to answer the question yourself in comments!)
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As a nurse and physician team, we don’t claim to be experts in firearms although we certainly have our ways of assuring our home and personal defense. I won’t state exactly what weapons we may have personally, but I will give you our strategy to economically and efficiently put together an appropriate store of firearms that will make sense for you. There are many, many differing opinions on this subject; this article is one from an admitted amateur.
From the standpoint of weapons, you will want to first have something that can serve the purposes of hunting and personal defense. For this, I would consider the shotgun to be the best place to start. A shotgun will allow you to hunt, sometimes inefficiently, just about anything you don’t mind picking buckshot or birdshot out of. It can also quickly end a home invasion in a decisive manner.
For those unacquainted with shotgun ammo, buckshot is essentially a lead load (or steel, tin, tungsten, polymer, etc.) that contain relatively large balls encased in a plastic 2 ¾ – 3 ½ inch “shell” with a metal base containing powder. They have more penetrating power than birdshot , which is composed of, usually, larger numbers of smaller balls. Shot diameter is offered in many sizes. It is measured in a traditional fashion, with 000 buckshot (pronounced “triple-ought”) being larger than 00 (pronounced “double-ought”). The larger the diameter of the ball, the more penetrating power, very useful when hunting big game like deer. The larger the number of balls, the larger the spread as the shell is fired, which gives you a better chance of hitting a bird in the air. Barrel length is also a factor here, with a “sawed off” shotgun having a larger spread pattern than a longer one.
The most commonly found shotguns are 12 gauge or 20 gauge. Gauge represents the inside diameter of the barrel, or “bore”. For 12 gauge, the diameter is 18.53 mm or 0.729 inches; 20 gauge is smaller at 15.63 mm or 0.615 inches. As a result, 20 gauge shells contain less powder and shot. This is, actually, an advantage, as you will have less recoil. Anyone who has fired a shotgun has experienced its recoil and, for petite individuals, it’s not pleasant and may disturb your aim. Therefore, a 20 gauge shotgun may be a good choice for a smaller, less experienced individual. Many, however, consider the 12 gauge more versatile.
For home defense, you must consider whether you want improved stopping power (Buckshot) or a higher likelihood of hitting an intruder (Birdshot). With 00 Buckshot, for example, you run a greater risk of having balls go through a wall of your home and striking innocents inside. With Birdshot, penetration is less and the likelihood of collateral damage is smaller, but so is the likelihood that you won’t end the confrontation decisively.
Once you have your shotgun, you might consider a rifle. Rifles have much greater accuracy at a distance than shotguns or handguns, and will be very useful for hunting purposes. Traditional hunting rifles are chambered in relatively large ammo, capable of dropping big game easily with a well-placed shot.
Since 9/11, many have obtained AR or AK platform rifles, for home defense. I won’t get into which is better here, as that conversation is more worthy of an entire book than a blog article. Home defense issues could be overpenetration with collateral damage, or a lack of stopping power when a bullet passes right through an intruder. In these circumstances, an invader can continue his assault before he bleeds to death. Newer rounds such as the Winchester’s .223 PDX1 are designed to fragment even more easily than standard AR ammo, decreasing the chances of overpenetration and causing more damage. Some have had their AR’s chambered in larger ammo to better serve the dual purposes of hunting and defense. AK rounds are acceptable for deer, but the classic issue of accuracy at long distance exists. Here’s an article on the assault rifle as hunting tool:
http://cheaperthandirt.com/blog/?p=4501
If you are not in a SHTF situation, remember that some states do not allow you to hunt with a semi-automatic weapon.
Which leads us to handguns. Handguns have relatively heavy ammunition in short barrels, and are less accurate than longer-barreled rifles. They have limited usefulness as a hunting weapon. For ease of carry, they may be useful in the hands of a trained person for home defense. I consider them a secondary gun for protection purposes. Having said that, handguns are very popular and most preparedness folk have them and, hopefully, know how to use them. I consider GLOCK to have an excellent, durable, and affordable line of handguns chambered in various calibers. There are many other excellent handgun manufacturers, like Sig Sauer, Ruger, Beretta, etc. The larger the caliber, the more recoil. The shorter the barrel, the less accuracy. Most revolvers have longer barrels, but I prefer the speed and simplicity of loading a magazine.
If you are in a survival group, consider the importance of uniformity in your selection of firearms. It is much simpler for everyone to use similar ammunition and weaponry, as everyone can use everyone else’s ammo in a pinch and a broken-down weapon will yield replacement parts for working guns. As many people already have some firearms in their possession, be prepared for a lively conversation.
So, there you have it, a discussion of survival weaponry from a complete amateur. We do regularly train with our guns, however, and this is the most important aspect of owning firearms. If you aren’t used to using a handgun, rifle, or shotgun, consider training classes. If you don’t, you will be more of a liability than an asset in a hunt or a defense situation. In that case, it’s a good idea to read some of our articles on treating traumatic injuries!
Dr. Bones
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As an “expert” on firearms, I must say, that you choose one of the most contensious issues for the prepper community. Everyone has his own notion about which guns to have. And, there are no easy answers.
Though the old saying, that any gun is better than no gun applies, Generally, your choice should reflect your personal situation. Think in terms of the stages of the “event”.
Generally;
Hanguns can be concealed. Though not easy, many people hunt with just handguns. Skills would need to be developed for that.
Hunting type long guns could prove useful. Shotguns serve both tactically, and for meat harvesting. 12 gauge ammo is very common, and could perhaps be bartered for after things settle down. Interchangable barrels allow for conversion for specific applications. Small shot for small game, rifled slugs for up to a moose.
Tactical rifles come into their own in the later stages, when communities have formed, and need to defend remaining supplies, grown food, and water resources from outsiders.
Those choosing a military rifle should consider that it may become impossible to get ammo if it’s not what is in common use by police and military forces where ever you are in the world
Consider,….
Shots draw attention. Attention brings danger.
Chances are that the Government will try to confiscate guns.
Living off the land is just not practical. You just won’t find enough game to sustain yourself. You’ll have a better chance of harvisting stray cats and dogs
Eventually ammo, and reloading supplies will run out.
Having a high qualtiy pellit gun is perhaps a very good idea for quitely taking small game. A bow, or cross bow may also be a good choice. also, a quality sling shot.
How about a flint lock, a supply of flints, a bullet mold for casting lead bullets, and knowledge of how to make your own crude black powder?.
Thanks for your excellent input. I will probably gain a lot more knowledge than I imparted with this post (which is what I expected, actually)…
Thanks for the Blog on weaponry folks. I will pass it on to Cleveland Survival Preppers ! – doug
Thanks, Doug!
I think a good long gun and handgun are essential for everyone. Some might think a shotgun is best, some might say a rifle like an AK or AR…Shotguns are more versatile than rifles and can face many situations. So It would be a tough decision for only 1 long gun. Do your research and see whats best for you!
Tru Dat, Craig!
Couple of things; With a shotgun, or any firearm, you want to stop an attacker immediately. So, you want to use a firearm and ammunition that will do just that. You mentioned collateral damage, which is a real concern. The answer to that is know what’s behind your target. With modern building materials used in nearly every house, if the round is sufficient to penetrate the attacker and stop him, it will go through a wall. If it won’t go through a wall , it also won’t go deep enough to stop the attacker. Use ammo appropriate for the purpose. Use bird shot if you are hunting birds. Use slugs or buckshot for larger animals or attackers. I read about a case in which a police officer was at a range practicing with his shotgun, with birdshot for comfort. When he was done he didn’t switch out the ammo. He got a call of a B&E at a warehouse. The bad guy took his shotgun away and killed him. Use appropriate ammo for the purpose. Be aware of what’s behind your target. Aim carefully. Next point is about over penetration with AR’s or AK’s. The same issue,really. Same applies to handguns. Use hunting ammo (or, for handguns, defense rounds). Hunting ammo is designed to make a catastrophic wound channel and not go all the way through. I recommend checking out http://www.theboxotruth.com/
All of this long winded, not so expert opinion notwithstanding, this was a good article.
Dr. Martin L. Fackler’s articles are pretty much the standard in the study of ballistics and wounds.
Training, training, training! Most people don’t get enough firearms safety and tactical training. I think if you are going to own firearms the responsbility is there to obtain training from reputable and well respected instructors at least annually. Firearms retention and counter-retention training should be included part of one’s well rounded training experience. Coupled with the skills to take a life in self defense are the necessary first aid skills to reasonably be knowledgeable enough to attempt to save a life. Training in both is optimal. Afterall, the life you save may be your own or that of a loved one.
Which firearm? That which you can consistently get the best hits with and run competantly. Hand guns are weak and ineffective weapons but they are a good compact package for self defense. Shotguns are good for home defense and in urban/subrban settings while in more rural areas a carbine or rifle may be more effective without the concerns of over penetration, especially when the backstop is almost always a safe one.
Things most people don’t consider include portability. in SHTF mode you will want to WEAR your weapon(s). Handguns are normally a lot easier to carry in a simple gunbelt holster type mode. A basic 357 magnum with 4″ or 6″ barrel can be an excellent handgun and able to hunt pretty well out to 50 yards or even 75 yards 100 yards with a red dot scope mounted. You should probably try different weapons out and when you find one you like stick with that. One short handgun and one long gun (be it carbine, shotgun or bonafide hunting rifle) you will want a sling on your long gun to also carry it and you will need to have reloading in mind. The main point of having both a short gun and long gun is that while you are reloading one or the other you have the alternate weapon ready in case enemies attempt to intrude or otherwise foil your reloading attempt. Since most encounters occur at short range the short handgun is best and my personal favorite the revolver has no safety to remove and no magazine to jam and the best defensive move is to fall back away from the conflict point you can switch over to your long gun once you reach 50-100 yards and make it clear you are best to move AWAY from because you are prepared to defend adequately.
I personally chose to arm myself with a 12 gauge and a 9mm. Some like the .45 for its stopping power but a 9mm firing 9mm hollowpoints will provide decent stopping power with a slightly better range. My next target firearm is an M-14 but those are pricey so I gotta save a bit! Would also settle for AR-18. These options could give you an advantage in any type of situation.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for the kind words and support!
Dr. Bones